Now it’s time for the case to face off cabling and fixing problems involved with the Pi, to get a clean solution I’ve wisely created few holes on the Raspi PVC handler, as shown from the picture below
Raspberry case (pvc base)

Here are:– (A) an huge cut in the top middle part of the PVC for the power supply unit DC adapter, this is where the front connector goes
– (B) a small hole on the top right, this is for the USB cable between the Raspberry and the USB hub, it’s used for adding ports to the Pi, unfortunately the Raspberry has two USB ports and one of them is reserved for the expansion cable, sadly this expansion cable needs to go back inside the case to extend the USB hub, that’s because I’ve decided to add the Hub to the Pi in the same case. It’s ugly but this is the only way to achieve it
– (C) a small cut on the bottom middle part of the PVC, this is where the same USB cable (coming from [B]) passes to connect the Raspberry to the USB hub
– (D) a small cut on the bottom left part of the PVC, this is where the power supply cable passes to power on the USB hub
– (E) few small drills around the Raspberry Pi position, I don’t really like them but this board sadly doesn’t have any mounting holes where a screw could fit or nothing usable for fixing it properly to a base. So I’ve used plastic pillars (fitted in these holes) and binders. An orrible result but that’s the only way I’ve had to firmly fix the card

Tied Pi

Here’s an horrid picture with a Tied Raspberry, if you’re an engineer involved in the production process of this card please just take these few free tips:
– Use mounting holes ! just like every existing electronic product available on this planet
– Provide some sort of frame or anchor solution where an hacker may place an heatsinc. I’ve inserted some small Aluminium heatsinks to allow possible overclocks and to mitigate the heat generated by the board.
In the final assembly I’ve also connected these sinks to the Alu case with copper wires so even the case is involved in absorbing the generated heat

Raspberry case (Tied Pi)

I’m not so proud of this image but binders and plastic pillars will fit the card nicely inside the case, you can also see two small heatsinks

Connecting the cables

Now it’s time to:
– Connect the microUSB cable FROM the USB adapter TO the Raspberry Pi
– Connect the USB cable FROM one of the Raspberry Pi USB free ports to the USB hub to provide new USB 2.0 ports to the Raspberry card
As you can see I can use the same USB (powered) hub to do both things, also please note I’m using USB ports placed on the back of the hub to limit external cables outside the final case, take a look:

Raspberry case (some cabling)

Some notes :
– I didn’t cut cables to optimize space, I’ve just wrapped them to save construction time and use common cables, you don’t need soldering skills to do something like this
– The microUSB cable used for supplying power to the Raspberry takes current from the bottom right USB port of the Hub, this is easy and everything remains inside the case
– USB expansion cable (FROM the Raspberry TO the USB hub) is connected on the bottom Raspi USB port (in the upper right corner of the image), passes below the PVC sheet and comes back from the bottom through the small hole in the PVC, then it’s tied together and it’s connected to the USB Type B port (you can see it on the bottom left part of the hub)
– Everything is optimized to save space, you can also see additional holes near the USB cables, this is where additional binders will go later on to firmly fix USB cables
– Aluminium front panel is mounted in this image but it’s not clearly seen in these pictures, I’ll publish more details in the next post where I’ll put more details on the external layout and hw

As usually feel free to leave your comments for this step and stay tuned for additional details on the next post

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